Some stitches have the ability to scare people away; maybe all of them do under some circumstances. I've seen people who have stitched in even-count peyote stitch for years unravel over odd-count peyote stitch. On the other hand, I've seen people who have never done any peyote stitching understand odd-count right away. Nonetheless, the first few rows of peyote stitch are tricky. The beads twist around and don't stay where you want them to. When you add an odd-count turn at the end of the row, it compounds the difficulty even more. Still, I do think it is helpful to understand the basics of peyote before starting odd-count peyote, so it may be helpful to check out our Online Basics or watch a video before you give it a whirl.
Once you've reviewed the techniques, grab some beads. If you are just getting started, I suggest 10/0 or 8/0 cylinder beads, #10 beading needles, and some 6 lb. Fireline or your favorite beading thread. The larger size and cylindrical shape of the beads make them easier to work with. Work with about 18 in. (46 cm) of thread, and attach a stop bead at the end. You'll just be making small samples, so you don't need to leave a tail or work with long lengths of thread unless specified.
Compared to even-count peyote, odd-count peyote requires you to add the last
bead in odd-numbered rows in a different manner than all the other beads.
To begin, pick up seven beads. These seven beads will shift to make up the first two rows as
you add the third row. The odd-numbered rows have five
beads per row, and an odd-count turn is used as the last bead in the row is added. The even-numbered rows have four beads per row, and an even-count turn is used as the first bead of the next odd-numbered row is added. As you stitch the third row, you'll see that this is
the same way to start even-count peyote. Pick up a bead, skip the last bead of the nine, and, working back toward the tail, then sew through the next bead. Pick up a bead, skip a bead, and sew through the next bead. Repeat once. Now you have a spot to add one more bead, but no bead to sew through in the previous row. To remedy this, you must use one of the following odd-count turns:
First odd-count turn:
This is considered the traditional way. Sew through the remaining bead. Pick up a bead, and working away from the tail, sew back through the next bead in the second row and the next bead in the first row. Sew through the adjacent bead in the third row back toward the tail, the bead in the second row, and the bead the tail is exiting. Sew through the last bead added (the last bead in the third row). Now you are ready to work the next even-numbered row. You can work this turn at the end of each odd-numbered row, but your beads become packed with thread and can cause the strip of peyote to curve because your tension is affected by sewing through the three edge rows more than once each time you turn.
Here are a few alternate ways to make the first cumbersome turn described above:
• When you are ready to add the last bead in the odd-numbered row, pick up a bead, and, working away from the tail, sew back through the remaining bead in the previous row. Yep, that's it. Now, flip your beadwork so that your working thread is facing your dominant hand. It is a little strange that the tail will be exiting the second edge bead instead of the first, but you will most likely sew through the last edge bead with the tail to attach the clasp anyway. Your working thread is in position to start the next row.
• If you must exit the last bead added in the third row due to a pattern, sew back through the last bead added in the third row. The thread will be exiting the bead in the wrong direction. To fix this, sew around the tail between the stop bead and the edge bead in the first row and back through the last bead in the third row.
• Another quick way to add that last bead in the third row is to pick up a bead and simply tie the working thread and tail together using a square knot, and sew back through the last bead in the third row. You are now ready to stitch the next row.
• I like to use the following technique if I have a long strip of peyote to make and want to work from the center of the length of thread. Thread a needle on both ends of the thread, and center two beads. Put the two needles together, and with both needles, pick up a single bead. Slide the bead down the length of the doubled thread, next to the first two beads. Position the first two beads so they sit side by side with the holes parallel, and the single bead is stacked and centered next to the two. Separate the needles, and with each needle, pick up a bead. Put the needles together, and with both needles, pick up a single bead. Slide all the beads down the length of the thread, stacking the new set next to the previous set. Repeat. Separate the needles, and with each needle, pick up a bead. Using one needle, sew back through the bead on the other needle. Repeat with the other needle. This completes the first three rows. Wind one of the threads up, and work with the other thread until you run out, then switch to the remaining thread.
Okay, practice the ways to work the first turn when using flat peyote stitch. After that, you can work simplified turns. The following is considered the traditional way to make subsequent odd-count turns:
• To add the last bead in the row, pick up a bead, sew under the thread bridge between the two previous edge beads, and back through the last bead added. This is quick and easy, but in my book, it isn't the ideal way to make the turn because the threads on the odd-count edge are doubled — actually they are tripled because two threads are added to the existing bridge of thread each time the bead is added. The other edge will only have one thread between the edge beads. As you may know, I really like symmetry in my designs, and I also like to minimize the amount of thread that shows along the edge of peyote strips. So ... I've compiled a few ideas for you if you feel the same.
Alternate subsequent odd-count turns:
• I've used this technique for a long time and have heard other bead artists refer to it as well. You essentially "put off" adding the last bead in the row, which causes previous rows to have to "catch up" to the current rows. To work this method, instead of picking up a bead and sewing back through the previous edge bead, you sew through the previous edge bead first, then pick up a bead, and sew back through the last bead in the previous row (figure 1). This completes the odd-numbered row, but your thread is coming out of the middle of two beads. Sew through the next bead in the odd-count row, work two stitches to the end of the new even-count row, but as you can see once you reach the end of the row, the first stitch of this even-numbered row is missing (figure 2). Work two stitches in the new odd-count row. Now you have to fill in the missing bead by sewing through the next bead in the previous odd-count row, picking up a bead and sewing through the next bead (the previous edge bead, figure 3). This changes the turn along this edge into an even-count turn. Work two stitches, completing the odd-count row. Your thread is coming out in the middle of nowhere again, so sew through the next bead in the odd-count row, and continue in peyote. This technique practically eliminates the odd-count turn, but it is quite tricky unless you are very comfortable with peyote stitch. The number of stitches you add in each row changes with this technique, and after every few rows your thread ends up exiting the edge bead of an odd-count row in the wrong direction. When that happens, you simply sew under the thread bridge and back through the last edge bead, which starts the cycle over, keeping you on your toes! I do not recommend using this technique with a complicated pattern.
• I found another way that simplifies the process described above, and although I'm sure other people have thought of this, when the idea came to me, I felt pretty clever. *When you are ready to add the last bead in the odd-count row, sew through the previous edge bead. Pick up a bead, and sew through the first bead in the previous even-numbered row. This completes the new odd-numbered row, but again, the thread isn't where you want it to be to start the next row. You can use this to your advantage by picking up a bead and sewing through the bead your thread just exited (the first bead in the previous even-numbered row) and the next bead in the newest odd-count row (figure 5). Snug up the thread and position the newest bead between the last two stitches in the previous row. This new bead is the first bead in the new even-numbered row. Complete the even-numbered row (figure 6), and work the first three stitches in the new odd-count row. Repeat from the * for all subsequent rows.
There are many other variations that will work, but these will get you started, and hopefully will take any fear you may have of working with odd-count peyote stitch. If anyone else has any other tips to help your fellow beaders, please post them here.